Austria, Vienna. Secession building and “Mark-Anton Group”

I come back to the story of route which we began travel the last year. I’ll remind, the start point became Karlskirche, and today we still stayin’ Karlsplatz and stand in front of building of Secession. It is a difficult task to tell about Secession as the building itself and movement of Secession are described in every tourist guides and it’s real challenge for me.

I’ve looked through the photos took at different years and have chosen some ones that attached along with well-known views to my today’s post. First: “Mark-Anton Gruppe” situated on the right hand of Secession. The second: I’ll maintain my telling about Secession movement with some last year’s photos as illustration of close connection of generations living in different time. A little bit “hooligan” but continuing to break moral principles of society.

In spring 2010 the Exhibition by Christoph Büchel “Raum für Sexkultur“, was held in Secession.  Artist represents an installation decorated as a room of Vienna Swinging Club. Unfortunately I returned to Vienna at the end of April and couldn’t visit it. I haven’t even  chance to tell about as Secession official web site didn’t published the report yet and there is an announcement “coming soon” till now but nevertheless, there was something that remained about exhibition up to the autumn. In front of entrance niche there was an original poster and we can enter the building crossing (passing going) “between legs of the naked girl”.

 

Now, it is time to mention about Secession movement. It seems to me, that this remark will set all on the places and it will clear why similar exhibition are pertinent in Secession.

Vienna Secession was founded at the end of 19^th century and the members of it were Gustav Klimt, Koloman Mozer, Joseph Maria Olbrich, Oskar Kokoshka, Egon Schile and other artists.  I believe these names speak about much. Even who only saw movie “Klimt” can imagine an atmosphere and ideas of those years without effort. These artists have torn with traditional concepts of art and have created new association, which we name Vienna Secession since then. Approximately at the same time Joseph Maria Olbrich has designed exhibition pavilion Secession. Today the building of Secession named a key work of Viennese Art Nouveau. Everything was designed and made by group members and even decorative vases in front of entrance are the art objects.

It is getting clear now, why the “Mark Anton Gruppe” sculpture is situated on the right hand of Secession. Originally the sculptural group was established temporarily on this place and there are no any explanation inscriptions about this decision. The choice of place was hot debated and in result the sculpture was established near Secession temporarily (I remind, it was a time of active development of vacant territory of Karlsplatz) but the commission never discussed this question in future and we see “Mark Anton Gruppe” at the same place.  The sculpture was created by Secession member of Arthur Strasser and probably this fact became the main reason of the choice of place near Secession. The Sculpture was created especially for a world’s fair in Paris, 1900.

Now, about Secession building a little. The building occupies the area 1000 m². Walls represent massive cubic blocks; however these rather rigid geometrical lines soften the curves indoors. The round dome is executed of 3000 gilded bronze laurel leaves (laurel leaf is the dominant symbol of building) and 700 round berries. The entrance area is decorated by the masks of the three Gorgons, which symbolize architecture, sculpture and painting. The motto of Secession movement is written above the entrance of the pavilion: “To every age its art, to art its freedom”. The building was damaged by bombs during WWII and set on fire by the retreating German army). Today we see renovated building of Secession.

(information about building and a photo of destroyed Secession from official web site of Secession).

Genoa and Euroflora Flower Show

Genoa. I wanna tell about this trip though we visited Genoa five years ago. We planned a trip to this city especially because in 2006 the flower show took place in Genoa. In spring of 2011 the show was held again (the Euroflora take place every five years) so today I recall Euroflora 2006.

We went to Genoa on Italy Liberation Day. When we arrived at train station, we definitely were glad that bought tickets the day before but yesterday we were wondered really, why the terminal device the places in different compartments but not at the same. While we were waiting the train, I’ve paid attention to the girl who again and again unsuccessfully tried to buy ticket to any train to Genoa but every time the answer was the same – no free places. In this case there is only way: to buy ticket without a place and pass the time (one and half hour) standing or sitting on the own bag out of compartment. We took places and the train has left to Genoa. Soon I’ve tried to go out of compartment to look at magnificent views on the opposite but couldn’t make any steps. People sat on a floor or stood so densely I should step through them.

In one and the half hour about we walk down the platform at Genoa and it seems that all Italy goes somewhere this day.

I’ll remind that Exhibition Euroflora took place in Genoa these days and organizes of this event met visitors already at station. The special marks lead step by step to an assembly point where it was possible to buy entrance tickets, get the full information about exhibition and take a bus running between railway station and exhibition.

But in the beginning we decided to walk through Porto Antico (we missed of the sea during the some days in Milan) and to stroll a little through narrow streets of old Genoa. You see an Old Genoa beacon and the replica of Columbus galleon “Neptune” in photos. This galleon was especially built in 1986 for movie “Pirates” of Roman Polansky and after was transferred to the Genoa’s Porto Antico.

But my place to remember in Genoa become the Garibaldi street exactly because it impressed me most of all. Take a look at some photos.

So little by little we reached expocentre, bought entrance tickets (tickets cost 10 € in 2006 but this year the entrance tax was doubled) and come in the first pavilion.

And now I’ll tell about exhibition Euroflora 2006. For the first time this flower show was held in 1966 and in 2006 the ninth edition of amazing worldwide event took place in Genoa. The leitmotif of Euroflora 2006 was: water as the primordial source of life and precious natural resources.  The giant waterfall was created at main pavilion and a lot of fountains and, speaking the modern language – water gadgets or jeux d’eau.  Certainly, it was impossible to ignore fishing village Portofino situated nearby. Nearby so closely that speaks: Genoa and Portofino are in stone’s through one from another. The creation of one of the participants is devoted to Portofino (photo with an old boat on sand).

There were a lot of visitors at show, so much that it was very difficult to take photos.  At least, we reached the pavilion where were on display the creations of famous florists. I examined all in details and noted also the familiar name to me – Swedish florist Swedenson (he read seminar “Cascade bouquets” at my florist college.  

Since old times Genoa was an entry gate to the Ligurian region so: "the sea became one of the new entries at Euroflora 2006 with the reconstruction of an “old America” port and with a boat filled with plants. It has been a fascinating step back into the history of spices, herbs, and fruits like tea, coffee and cocoa, date palms and banana trees, all of which came to Europe sown through the centuries from the farthest corners of the Earth"

We spent day up to the closing at exhibition and then returned to city center; strolled a little along quay and left for Milan. Certainly, it isn’t enough, only day in Genoa, but I’m ready to tell more and more as Genoa impressed me so much.

Three Milan’s famous landmarks

Today we shall walk through the Milan’s city center and visit three Milan’s most famous landmarks, having gone along a chain from Milan cathedral to the La Scala theatre through magnificent gallery of Vottorio Emanuele II. Milan’s city center is very compact but you won’t accomplish the “see everything in a day” as will stopped at every step especially at windows of famous fashion shops.

We began a day-trip from Duomo or Milan cathedral.  The weather was fine and we postponed a visit to museums for rainy days and decided to stroll at open air.  True, air was fresh and easy and the sky cloudless all days of our Italian trip that year and apparently we were lucky with weather because Milan has reputation as the Europa’s most polluted city.  Duomo is the only white marble Gothic cathedral in Europe and certainly its sizes impressed me. It is second largest cathedral in Italy after Peter’s Basilica in Rome. The place itself, on which the modern cathedral was built, arouses trembling not only of Christians but also admirers of other cults. In very old times, there stood ancient Celtic sanctuary, later the Roman temple of worship the Minerva and then some replaced one other Christian churches before the modern Milan cathedral was built on this place. So, a place is very mysterious. The cathedral is topped with famous Madonnina’s spire with famous Madonnina statue (the statue of the Virgin Mary) and by tradition, no building in Milan is higher than the Madonnina.

By the way, if you haven’t enough time to visit famous mono-brand Milan’s shops, I advise to pass along the street situated aside from Duomo and visit famous Rinanscene store where you’ll find all kinds of goods of newest collections.

    



After survey the Duomo we go round the Duomo square and now enter to the gorgeous gallery of Vittorio Emanuele II. This passage is covered over by an arching glass and cast iron roof of crossing streets between opera house and the cathedral.  The central space is topped with a glass dome and decorated with mosaics symbolizes the union of church and the state. By especially I liked ideally polished mosaic floor which can be taken a look very long. It is true carpet. I would like only to add: the south entrance to the gallery it is a triumphal arch added in 1877.

Having gone through the gallery of Vittorio Emanuele and seeing at fashion fans: they arrive to Milan center close to lunch (don’t forget that Milan is the center of fashion industry) we reached the La Scala theatre.

Our walk is finished and next time we’ll go to Genoa. We visited Genoa 5 years ago but I wanna tell about this trip. Then, we planned to visit this city specially because in 2006 there took place a grandiose flower show in Genoa.  

Mornig in Milan

The time have come to move to Europe. I’ll still write about Israel during May but will continue to travel through Austria and Italy as well and my first post is for Milan.

This time we’ve start to travel from Tel-Aviv but not from Vienna. I formed an opinion about Milan airport Malpensa only on back way when we have had more time to examine it. The impression was favorable as I compared Malpensa to Israel airport Ben Gurion which is included into the top five of most perspective airports for their potential of development and uses of their infrastructure in the future.

Nevertheless, on arrival day we were hurried to drive to apartment which became “the base” of our residing for 10 days. The owner met us, quickly showed the flat and invited to glance to his office situated opposite La Scala theatre. Small nuance that was pleasant so much: there was a big dish with fruits on the table. Usually, if I wanna something laid in refrigerator, I order beforehand.

But the biggest “surprise” expected us at night and I was definitely glad that windows of a bedroom turned to the courtyard but not in street. I have meant a Milan tram. When we arrived, I immediately opened all windows to hear the city and sound of church’s bells, nearby there was a church.

With night comes everything was calmed down and suddenly, with interval of 15th minutes around, we hear the roar so loud that I closed the windows and shutters immediately. It was the Milan tram which how I understood next day go along almost every Milan’s street. I never heard this roar in Vienna, the trams aren’t audible there, but in Milan all is sonorous plus the love of Italians to scooters. My tip for travelers: always to be interested, where the windows of your room look in Milan.    

In the morning we went to the walk and spent the first Milan morning in fortress Sforsa and Sempione Park.

I invite to stroll along with me through Milan when there isn’t hot yet and inhabitants are still having a rest in Milan Parks but not leave the city to find the cool on nearest lakes.